Hallo, ich arbeite intensiv an meinen Reiseplänen. Vielen Dank für Ihre Geduld.
Hello, I am working hard on my travel plans. Thank you for your patience.
Lunch like a local
Vienna is a city of bureaucrats and students, all of whom have to be fed and watered. Inside the city’s hulking ministries and cultural institutions, canteens are open from Monday to Friday – and access to these subsidised salons is generally unrestricted. If you’re on a budget or merely fancy a peek into the underbelly of the Austrian state, here are some central options.
Near Schottentor U-Bahn you can ride a hop-on-hop-off paternoster lift to the top floor of the NIG (1, Universitätsstrasse 7, 406 4594) to a penthouse MENSA with striking views of the Rathaus, Votivkirche and Josefstadt prison. The food is fairly pedestrian, though. In the Innere Stadt, the Musikakademie MENSA (1, Johannesgasse 8, 512 9470) combines historic surroundings, decent main courses and piano practice. Nearby on the Ringstrasse, another MENSA at the Akademie für Angewandte Kunst (Oscar Kokoschka Platz, 2) is a dirt-cheap pre-fab full of hipster art students. Another art school canteen, with a magnificent interior and large beers at €2.20, is the Akademie der Bildenden Künste (1, Schillerplatz 3, 588 16-1166). For basic Austrian dishes, the canteen of the state-run Akademietheater (51444-4740) is pretty faultless. Enjoy a cheap Schnitzel and sautéd potatoes on period Formica tables in the company of stagehands, actors and academics. Superior nosh is on offer at the Minoritenstüberl, the Education Ministry canteen (1, Minoritenplatz 5, 533 5281) where every Wednesday they serve Beuschel, Vienna’s classic offal dish.
15. Experience chocolate heaven
Go to chocolate emporium Xocolat, in the stone arches of the Ferstel passage, for the creations of Catalan chocolatier Enric Rovira, aromatic Californian Scharffen Berger and Austrian brand Zotter. In the 9th district, Xocolat-Manufaktur is a boutique and workshop, where you can watch chocolatiers at work and inhale the heady aromas. Workshops (€95) are offered by appointment, led by chef Christian Petz or pastry chef Thomas Scheiblhofer.
1, Freyung 2 (Palais Ferstel) (535 4363, www.xocolat.at). U3 Herrengasse. Open 10am- 6.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat; 10am-5pm Sun.
16. Get on the street art trail
The passageways of the MuseumsQuartier are home to changing art installations, covering comics, typography, sound art and street art. On the bridge that leads to Spittelberg, the Street Art Passage is particularly noteworthy, featuring a permanent piece by French artist Invader, a temporary artwork and a vending machine selling copies of street art magazine Betonblumen (‘concrete blooms’), designed by the featured artist. A few streets away, overlooking the Naschmarkt, the INOPERAbLE Gallery at Stiegengasse 2/3, specializes in urban and street art (www.inoperable.at).